How to pronounce miriam toews bio

QUARTERLY, POSTAL OFFICE 1040 VIENNA, P.B.B., GZ 05Z036212 M, NO.07, OCTOBER 2008

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ECO-CHIC: FASHION WITH A GOOD CONSCIENCE

OWN CONSTRUCTION: DIMENSIONS VS. MASS PRODUCTION

MARKETPLACE: FOR BIG PURSES AND SMALL PURSES


Naturally.

Is diversity moths coming? of many

In the world of yes! Of course everything is still as it should be. And that has it's reason. Care is taken to ensure that the balance of our nature remains. Because here, too, the same applies: as you call into the field, it comes back. For the yes! Of course, organic farmers mean that whoever lets nature enjoy its diversity will also reap diversity. So bring the yes! Of course, not only do you harvest many different types of fruit and vegetables, but also a wide variety of varieties. For example, in summer the Green Zebra and Black Cherry Tomato and for the potato harvest pink pine cones and Linz delicacies. Because only if we let nature have its diversity will we get diversity back. More at www.janatuerlich.at

EXCLUSIVE TO:


No more fashion Victims Editorial "money is power" Money is power. The more money in an individual's pocket, the more design options for the individual. And - many individuals with little money, if they act consciously (together), mean a lot of power all in all. This power must be used every day with every purchase (of whatever). For example when buying clothes. Like Katharine Hamnett once, our cover calls for “No more Fashion Victims”. With this issue, we want to illustrate and make it possible to a certain extent that it is up to us to implement this requirement. The furnishing of the personal wardrobe is not only a taste, but also a highly political act. Likewise, the question of how and where I invest or deposit my money. For many, this may be a pure cost / benefit calculation, in which the word "service" in particular has the greatest relevance ... but the money that we do not spend directly and obviously is no less powerful. If the individual's money is with a financial institute or investment company of their choice, the design option is also laid aside - someone else then designs. It is investment bankers and speculators who add to the money of the banks that are playing with the money. Regardless of whether and to what extent we want to answer for it. This is what Erwin Wagenhofer's new film "Let's make MONEY" is about and there is probably no better time than now for this film to hit our and hopefully many cinemas worldwide. Whether buying clothes or choosing the financial institution to use the words of karmakonsum. de to close and invite you to: »Do good with your money«. Spend money consciously, consciously "store" money and thus shape this world.

BIORAMA, like The Gap, magazine for popular and everyday culture, is published by MONOPOL VERLAG. www.monopol.at

"How we make money" Since Biorama is not available for sale apart from a subscription, which I would like to explicitly advertise here, the magazine for sustainable lifestyle is financed through advertising. We make an honest magazine and deliver honest advertising in the form of advertisements. No text, image or product appears in a paid way by a customer, but purely out of the motivation and free decision of our editors. As readers, we fundamentally ask for nothing else from magazines and newspapers. We want to offer our readers this independence and seriousness and we look forward to seeing it. Feedback is welcome: [email protected]

Kind regards Milo Tesselaar Editor


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INTRODUCTION 03 Editorial 06 Person of the season 08 Product of the season 10 Me and the others 12 events

Hess Natur From glitz and glamor to a clear conscience: The Spanish designer Miguel Adrover creates affordable for you and me.

MAGAZINE 14 Let's Make MONEY 16 Intro: Fashion 20 Hess Natur 24 Waldviertler 36 Label portraits 42 Meinklang

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INTERVIEW 40 Holm Friebe

Waldviertler Who does not know them, the local shoe classics with a touch of health. A tour of the last shoe workshop in Lower Austria.

SPECIAL 46 Preservation PHOTO ROUTE 28 Fashion 50 Herbal Icons MARKETPLACE 56 Children 62 Test 64 Distribution 66 Quality mark

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Self-made brand The Berlin trend researcher Holm Friebe in an interview about the uprising of the masses against mass production

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The Rampant Growth On the photographic search for parts of plants that are astonishing.


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Biorama is printed with green electricity and with mineral oil-free, environmentally friendly inks based on plants. Both the print shop (Gugler Crossmedia) and the paper (Luxo Velvet Offset) have been awarded the Austrian eco-label.

Imprint EDITOR Milo Tesselaar Editor-in-chief Martin Zolles AUTHORS Mirjam Bromundt, Michael Huber, Gabriele Medan, Magdalena Miedl, Ursel Nendzig, Gregor Schenker, Jutta Strohmeier, Horst Thiele, Magdalena Vukovic PHOTOGRAPHY Sig Ganhör, Käthe Ivansich, Stanislaus Medan EDITORIAL EDITOR Miriam Fröhlich DESIGN Super-Fi (Käthe Ivansich, Claudia Wittmann) WEB Super-Fi, m-otion ADS Milo Tesselaar (Head) SALES Milo Tesselaar DRUCK gugler GmbH, Auf der Schön 2, 3390 Melk / Donau PRODUCTION, MEDIA OWNER & MANAGEMENT Monopol GmbH, Favoritenstrasse 4–6 / III, 1040 Vienna CONTACT Biorama c / o Monopol GmbH, Favoritenstrasse 4–6 / III, 1040 Vienna; Tel. +43 1 9076766; www.biorama.at, www.monopol.at, Redaktion @ biorama.at BANK CONNECTION Monopol GmbH, easybank, account number 20010710457, BLZ 14200 SUBSCRIPTION (see website: www.biorama.at) PUBLICATION 4 issues per year; Place of publication Vienna; Verlagspostamt 1040 Vienna Articles identified by name do not necessarily reflect the publisher's opinion. The advertiser is solely liable for the content of advertisements. No liability is accepted for unsolicited images and text material. Any reproduction only with the written approval of the management. BLATTLINIE Biorama, as a quarterly medium, is critically committed to all aspects of sustainable everyday culture. The aim is to take up and promote Austrian topics in spite of the international orientation - provided that these appear sensible in an international context. Biorama reflects a hedonism with a good knowledge and conscience. Disclosure according to § 25 Media Act Media owner: Monopol Medien GmbH, Favoritenstrasse 4 / III, 1040 Vienna; Object of the company: publisher; Editor: Thomas Weber; Managing Director: Bernhard Schmidt; Monopol Medien GmbH: Thomas Weber (26%), Super-Fi GmbH (40%); Super-Fi GmbH: Niko Alm (46%)

You decide for yourself, the main thing is that you set an example for the environment.

www.eco-car4you.at


Text_Mirjam Bromundt

Person of the season Alec Hager, stakeholder on two wheels


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Sunny treasures from Turkey Sweet fruits & crunchy nuts RAPUNZEL dried fruits and nuts from the Turkey project are pampered by the Mediterranean sun. They are a real treasure trove of valuable ingredients and full aroma - in muesli, for baking or for nibbling. Discover your favorite products. More at www.rapunzel.de

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Alec Hager / IG Fahrrad, Rembrandtstrasse 6, A-1020 Vienna, 0650/33 46 723 www.ig-fahrrad.org www.radlobby.at www.bicyclefilmfestival.com [email protected]

Organic pioneer since 1974

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A lively bicycle subculture has been developing in Vienna for around two years. The Critical Mass bicycle demo, the Bikekitchen - workshop, kitchen and living room in one - or the Bicycle Film Festival all work thanks to the commitment of a small but strong group for whom bicycle lobbying and not financial success is the focus. One of them is Alec Hager, president and chairman of the IG Fahrrad association. The IG Fahrrad association has existed for four years - currently with around 200 members and has been really active for two years - in which Hager was not significantly involved in the establishment, but in the development and the first small workshop. The hobby has meanwhile become a profession: lobbying and networking work, the organization of events and public relations work are largely the responsibility of the 36-year-old Upper Austrian. Hager came to Vienna around twelve years ago and has been a keen cyclist ever since. "The bicycle is the very best urban means of transport, is a lot of fun and is just a really cool thing," says Hager of his constant companion. He currently has ten bicycles - the right one for every application, but a tandem or a real cargo bike is still missing from his collection. In addition to lobbying, two workshops and shops form the second pillar of IG Fahrrad. At the one on Westbahnstrasse, Hager himself is in the shop, advising customers and thus making a living. Because lobbying work is also voluntary at IG Fahrrad. "There needs to be a fresher wind in the whole cycling lobby and public relations work," says Hager and mentions some of the IG's concerns. For example, the obligation to use cycle lanes should fall, the cyclist should be integrated into flowing traffic and the number of accidents should be reduced by slowing down traffic. "It's about being confident on the street, just taking your place," says Hager. In addition to the contact with decision-makers in the city of Vienna, the IG has enough other ideas: campaigns such as the »Ghostbikes«, which are distributed as memorials for bicycle traffic victims in Vienna, a bicycle quartet based on Hager's childhood memories, or the Bicycle Film Festival, which runs from 9 to October 12th in the Urania with films and a lot of supporting program will create awareness for the burgeoning Viennese bicycle culture. And Alec Hager is right in the middle.

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RAPUNZEL. We make organic out of love.


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Product of the season On four wheels from the train station Text_Mirjam Bromundt

Traveling by train is not only more environmentally friendly and convenient than traveling by car, but also just as flexible thanks to the LaudaMotion car sharing program. At six stations across Austria (two in Vienna, one each in Graz, Innsbruck, Linz and Salzburg), a Smart Fortwo or Mini - practical city cars - that can be easily booked online, are waiting directly at the destination station. Small treat: with the Vorteils-, Österreich- or Businesscard of ÖBB and a train ticket for up to three days, 50 percent cheaper and a 100-kilometer journey included. Not convinced yet? Well. If you have a valid driver's license, a credit card and are at least 23 years old, nothing stands in the way of cheap and nimble mobility for nine euros (18 euros without a discount card) per calendar day. So cheap because the little speedsters are stuck with advertising and some services of the usual car rental are omitted. Online booking is foolproof:

Select the pick-up point (unfortunately it also has to be a return point), pick-up and return days plus the exact time and the price including opening times of the point will be spat out. All kinds of additional services such as fully comprehensive and passenger insurance, navigation or cleaning can be ordered for the specified surcharge. Another bonus: if you pick up the car in the evening and bring it back in the morning, you get a discount of ten euros, regardless of the rental price and rental period. The alternative to having your own car on your next city trip is ready, but still - don't forget - always carefully study the conditions and prices. You never know.

oebb.laudamotion.com


www.schladmingerbier.at


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Me and the other Ute Leube, managing director of PRIMAVERA LIFE GmbH, recommends her favorite own product and six third-party products. Pure enthusiasm for essential oils was the trigger for the foundation of PRIMAVERA LIFE in 1986, which I still manage today with Kurt L. Nübling. Our vision: to make authentic, organic products of the highest quality available to the market in order to increase the quality and enjoyment of life. The Roman goddess of spring was the godmother for the company name. It embodies the harmonizing, invigorating power of nature and serves us today as a seal of quality for pure natural essential oils and sophisticated natural cosmetics. All 700 products in our current range are 100 percent natural and are developed and produced here in the Allgäu with a lot of expertise and commitment. Most of the raw materials come directly from the manufac-

learn that we have known for 20 years and who work organically according to our specifications. At the same time, we help farmers to help themselves and secure their livelihoods and are actively committed to fair trade and sustainable and environmentally friendly agriculture. Our cultivation projects in France, Italy, Peru, Nepal, Turkey or Egypt are visited by our specialist customers and we train more than 5000 participants in our seminars every year. Together with our 130 employees, we want to keep moving, look ahead and continue to contribute to the fact that the world smells a little better and has a positive effect.

Organic products that I really appreciate: Original Muesli from Rapunzel, because there has been no better way to start the day in 30 years. Beetroot horseradish prank from Zwergenwiese, when I have to decide, because I like all Zwergenwiese spreads for "spooning out of the glass". Mango Lassi from Cosmoveda, because it tastes heavenly and brings back vivid memories of India. Celtic house tea from grasshopper, because it has a powerful and balancing effect at the same time.

My Primavera favorite product: Neroli Cassis Moisturizing Fluid, especially in summer, because the light care ensures lasting moisture and lets the skin breathe. The fresh, flowery scent of neroli and the precious black currant seed oil are some of my favorite raw materials.

ROUGE POWDER by Dr. Hauschka, because it naturally and inconspicuously conjures up the traces of a short night on your face. Noble bitter chocolate chili from Vivani, because the combination of fiery, hot chili and the finest bitter chocolate is unbeatably satisfying.


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I am organic. I live bio. Where the AMA organic mark is on it, it is organic. I can be sure of that. I love the pure life.

The AMA organic mark, the mark for organic quality.

www.wirsindbio.at


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Event tips autumn 2008 Sustainable weeks 2008 From 15.9. Until October 15, 2008, the Ministry of Life is again organizing the sustainable weeks throughout Austria this year. The motto of the annual sustainable weeks since 2004 is »Buy consciously. Live better". The campaign aims to encourage conscious consumption and promote the sale of sustainable products. Almost 40 retail chains take part in the campaign and will specifically point out products with ecological and social added value in their branches. As part of the sustainable weeks, there will also be specialist discussions on various topics. www.nachhaltigewochen.at International Bicycle Film Festival 2008 For the second time, visit the International Bicycle Film Festival from 9.10. until October 12, 2008 Vienna. The festival takes place worldwide and is organized in Vienna by IG Fahrrad. In addition to an interesting film program in the Urania cinema, the festival also offers other events in various bars along the Danube Canal. Around 70 films from various genres from all over the world will be shown in 8 screenings. The festival will open on October 9th. with a big opening party on the Badeschiff. Of course there is also the possibility to see what is seen on the screen live or even to try it yourself. bicyclefilmfestival.com/2008_site/vienna/ Bio-Aktionstage From 11.9. The organic days of action will take place all over Austria until September 20, 2008. As part of the campaign, free organic milk will be distributed in all Austrian provincial capitals so that organic enjoyment can be experienced up close. The supporting program includes tastings, information stands, festivals and events. Elevate Festival 2008 At the Elevate Festival for contemporary music and political discourse, which will take place from November 5. until 9.11. Taking place in Graz in 2008, the aim this year is to raise awareness of the importance of the common goods (commons) and to draw attention to social and economic conflicts over their use. A varied program with DJs, concerts, discussions, workshops and performances takes place under the motto “Elevate Commonism”. The festival is characterized by the extraordinary combination of political discourse, contemporary music and party culture and the unique venues (Schlossberg). All events on the subject of Commons can be attended free of charge. www.elevate.at Vienna Design Week From October 2nd to 12th, the Vienna Design Week offers an insight into the diverse work in the areas of product, furniture and industrial design. For over ten days, Vienna will become a platform for design and the work of a wide variety of designers from home and abroad will be presented. The Passionswege 2008 are a special highlight.Ten designers or design teams create site-specific installations in Viennese business premises. www.viennadesignweek.at


www.engarde.at

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MAKAvA Elixir of life is drunk in Vienna: Biomarket, Biomarkt Maran, St. Josef, MQ Daily, Biobar von Antun, Dreiklang, Joanelli r: below sn In Linz: Bio-Logisch, Inges Biocafe, Biomarket, Restaurant NIU, Restaurant pâ & # x20AC; & # x2DC; aa o ti Loca And in Graz: Biomarket, Kornwaage, Bioladen Matzer, Beas Urkost, Mangolds, Ginko, Tribeka. ere t t i e va.a dw All MAKAvA locations are available here: http://makava.tupalo.com a n k u a s Info w.m

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Text_Magdalena Miedl Photos_Filmladen

Money, not funny From the corrugated iron slum to the bank foyer: the connections between our savings accounts and poverty on the other side of the world are closer than we'd like to admit. Director Erwin Wagenhofer tracked them down - and again created a film that leaves its audience angry.

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eld doesn't work. It is always people who work and thus generate the interest on your account, because the money is invested while it is "lying" in the account. Director Erwin Wagenhofer relies on messages that remain clearly understandable, even if they only emerge in the course of his films. In his successful documentary "We Feed The World" from 2005 he outlined the global food industry and its excretory organs. The film was one of the most successful

Documentaries in recent years and made quite a few people think twice about buying yoghurt or chocolate of a certain brand - at least for a while, until convenience got the better of them again. But Wagenhofer is not comfortable, he once again hits his claws in the weary flesh of the consumers in order to at least bring some uncomfortability into the cinema halls and living rooms. Again he spans the range from global to local, from the unrealistic super broker to the

fallow golf turf on the Spanish Costa Blanca, from the Sahel zone to the investment paradise of Singapore, from the homeless shelter in Washington D.C. to the television studio in Vienna. For a drastic illustration, Wagenhofer films a studio worker setting up the Moneymaker airlock, the abstruse piece of equipment that drives people in an undignified, colorful tracksuit in front of cameras for banknotes in the hope of making a quick buck.


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The best time to buy is when there is blood on the streets. Even if it's your own blood. «Mark Mobius, Investor, Emerging Markets Fund Manager, is at Templeton Asset Management Ltd. responsible for $ 50 billion in Singapore. It is almost exclusively men who have their say, who talk about the workforce, the flow of money and investments. There is a woman who is allowed to have a say, she is a sociologist and economist, K. Sujatha Raaju, she guides the camera through a slum in Chennai, India and explains that most of them live like that - and some even poorer, who then have to go on the street sleep. Yes, and then there is the pebble woman who sweeps up stones in Burkina Faso and sells them in order to be able to make a living, and the cotton pickers who ask the director and cameraman directly for help. This is where the so-called “emerging markets” are located, which until a few years ago were called developing countries. Wagenhofer poses John Perkins, bestselling author (“Confessions of an Economic Hit

Man «), who describes himself as a former economic killer. He was commissioned by the World Bank to systematically weaken the governments of poor countries like Panama or Ecuador by investing World Bank loans in senseless infrastructure programs, and the resulting high debts lead to the countries becoming completely dependent. “If the hitmen are unsuccessful - then the jackals come to kill government officials. And if the country is still not worn down, then the military moves in - as in Iraq: If Saddam Hussein hadn't been so strong, there would never have been a military strike, ”is Perkins' theory, which sounds quite adventurous, but good is argued. What the cotton farmers in Burkina Faso feel and Francis

Kologo, the representative of the local cotton distribution company Sofitex, expresses exactly this unfair imbalance: “The American cotton producers are subsidized by their government - and we are required to be liberal. No wonder the African producers can't keep up. ”The conclusion that Kologo draws is simple and yet unattainable: If the Americans stopped their subsidies in their own country, Burkina Faso would not have to go into debt. It is then no surprise when Kurt Weill's song “Mackie Messer” from the Threepenny Opera sounds at the end of the credits, the plaintive morality of the devious robber: “And you only see those in the light. You can't see those in the dark. "


Fair fashion on the advance It has been hung on the big bell in the fashion industry: Sustainability is the trend this season. Young labels that have made fairness and common sense into a company ethos are selling successfully. The market sets the tone and a new type of customer has grown up in our part of the world.

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he Premium fashion fair in Berlin jumped on the bandwagon and presented over 50 eco-labels with Green Living. Although these were only partially produced in an ecologically or socially correct manner, the endeavors of this major fashion fair for more fairness in the fashion industry must be praised. What is being sold here as a novelty has been evident for several years. The fashion world carelessly describes it as a new trend, and reason and decency should be an integral part of the clothing industry. The aim is to move away from a niche product towards a general one

Understanding of environmentally friendly resources and appropriate money distribution. LOHAS (Life Of Health And Sustainability) is the keyword and the associated fashion is beginning to establish itself as eco-fashion (one of numerous names). The thoughtful generation has found suitable sayings and leading figures for their movement. Green is the new black and U2's Bono Vox is one of the many proponents of a sensible and thoughtful lifestyle. American Apparel showed the way and has advanced to become a cult brand. The trademark of the

Labels is the production under fair working conditions in Downtown Los Angeles. American Apparel only offers a small selection of Organics and has recently been heavily attacked for its labor policy. However, by rethinking production, the company has set the course for customers around the world and made awareness palatable. Knowledge is power and the new consumers want to know what they are putting on their skin. There are numerous blogs on the subject on the Internet, such as karmakonsum.de or gruenemode. de (even Gisele Bündchen has one


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Text_Magdalena Vukovic Photos_Labels

Eco blog!), Which deal with everything to do with eco fashion and reveal sources of supply. Important issues include the origin of the materials and the working conditions under which the clothing was made. Have pesticides been used in cotton cultivation, has the material been dyed with irritating chemicals that are harmful to both workers and end users, or have children even had to go to the field instead of school? The consumer shows awareness and interest for the reasons and the continuation of his well-being. Here not only unselfish motives are in the foreground: Those who do not expose their children and themselves to harmful chemicals and bad karma sleep peacefully with a clear conscience. Seal of approval chaos Of course, the customer cannot check himself where the materials come from and under what conditions the garment was processed. So he has to rely on certificates and seals of approval, which currently populate the organic market in an unmanageable number. Many of these seals guarantee that no chemicals were used, that the environment was not unnecessarily polluted or that the workers were not fobbed off with the lowest wages. Many companies have introduced codes of conduct to guarantee fair and sustainable production. These are determined by independent organizations that review and monitor compliance with these codes. They advocate regular working hours, a ban on forced and child labor and a safe and healthy workplace. Ethics tests are then carried out again and again, which give the consumer information on how closely a company adheres to the given guidelines. That H&M tops the list and Benetton,

made famous by Toscani's critical campaigns, is far behind, should be noted critically at this point. So it is not always gold that glitters. At the end of the day, consumers are left with a difficult thicket of certificates and organizations where they have to find their own favorites and the brand they trust. New old materials When it comes to materials, organic cotton is still the top priority in eco-fashion. Although the fluffy plant devours vast amounts of water and therefore cannot be an exclusive solution in the long term, it is the first choice of large corporations when it comes to conveying environmental awareness to customers - there are interesting alternatives. In organic fashion you can often find classic natural materials such as cotton, hemp or linen. They are breathable, absorbent and suitable for allergy sufferers. Other plant-based materials such as bamboo - for example offered by the American label Panda Snack in a blend with cotton - or soy are part of the wide range of plant-based fibers that can be grown gently. But it doesn't always have to be nature and so synthetic fabrics, some made from recycled material, are on the rise. In Austria in particular, a textile has recently been developed that not only feels wonderfully soft, but is 100% biodegradable and obtained from sustainable forestry. We are talking about the cellulose fiber Tencel, a substance that can absorb and release moisture quickly and has antibacterial properties without chemical additives. Tencel is similar to viscose, but the solvent is used over and over again when processing the wood fibers in order to get as little residue as possible into the water.

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It is only logical that recycled materials are particularly important in sustainably produced fashion. The American sportswear brand Patagonia, for example, asks its customers to return discarded clothing (in this case only from Patagonia itself) to the manufacturer. The old clothes are chopped up, pressed into granules and then spun into new plastic threads. Patagonia also fetches old plastic bottles from the garbage heap and turns them into fleece jackets. There are also such resource-saving projects on a small scale in Austria. With “Cash for Cashmere”, the Viennese boutique Modus Vivendi encouraged its customers to buy old cashmere sweaters that were converted into neat scarves and vests. Karin Maislinger also turns the old into new. The bicycle tube has become their trademark. Under the name Kontiki, the old rubber hoses are sewn into bags in their small workshop in Ottakring, which have found a large following in Vienna's Bobo circles. Variety of labels At the only Austrian eco-textile trade fair, Eco-Trend, several sustainable fashion labels from Austria were represented, such as Mayi, Milch and the goddess of happiness. All of these labels produce clothing made from fair trade organic cotton. The cuts are simple and comfortable, but figure-hugging and young. A new youthfulness dominates the international market and old hands like Hess Natur are competing with small labels. Two boys from Cologne founded the Armed Angels label in 2007 and have been successfully producing colorful organic cotton T-shirts with bright prints ever since. Part of the profit goes to various aid projects.


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The concept is well received. They pretend to be young and trend-conscious and count Thomas D or Charlotte Roche among their supporters. When it comes to basics - especially T-shirts - fair trade organic cotton is really big. Even Katherine Hamnett made a name for herself in the eighties with oversized organic T-shirts that were printed with slogans such as "Choose Life" (everyone can still remember from the Wham! Video) or "Save Africa". The brand was revitalized in 2005 under stricter ethical conditions and is again in line with the spirit of the times. There is also something worth mentioning in the field of more sophisticated fashion.

CONTROL IS BETTER So far there is no uniform, internationally valid label that includes both ethical and ecological criteria. A compilation of the most important quality seals and inspection organizations follows as a guide through the thicket of labels that is available instead. Under their supervision, either ethically correct working conditions or ecological cultivation as well as the avoidance of harmful chemicals in production are guaranteed. Some seals, such as Naturtextil Best or the still immature GOTS, include both. A good overview of the various labels is provided by www. label-online.org and the blog »Green Mode« by Kirsten Brodde (www.kirstenbrodde.de). GOTS The GOTS, or Global Organic Textile Standard, is the most ambitious attempt to date to create a uniform international seal of quality. The idea arose in 2002 in Düsseldorf. The seal is intended to guarantee that the product from cultivation to

The Berlin label Slowmo makes the finest streetwear. Jackets and trousers for women and men, made of fine, high-quality organic cotton, can be purchased online. Slowmo moves away from overly simple everyday fashion and manages to create its own style. Sustainable production is a matter of course for the new designers and is not made into a figurehead. In Great Britain, Holland and Scandinavia, many sustainable labels have grown in recent years that cannot be distinguished from conventional fashion in terms of style and price. From well-fitting organic jeans from Kuy-

consumers got by entirely without harmful chemicals and all workers were paid and treated fairly. The GOTS should be on the market in fully developed form by 2010 - at the moment it is still a bit premature to call it the future for the eco-textile market. Fairtrade This seal of approval is awarded by the international Fairtrade Labeling Organization, which is based in Bonn. The seal is checked by their certification body FLO-CERT. Fairtrade recognizes products that have been produced under social working conditions, but not necessarily under ecological conditions - the company, however, strives for natural cultivation. The Fairtrade seal is responsible for a wide range of products, from food to textiles. www.fairtrade.at Naturtextil Best Both social and ecological guidelines apply here during processing. The seal

ichi, from upscale womenswear from the Norwegian label Fin to sneaky sneakers from the French Veja, customers can find everything their hearts desire - a lot of it still has to be ordered online, but you like to keep up with the times. Major labels, especially C&A, now offer a small selection of organic fashion. Cotton is mainly used for this. Large corporations in particular are not very innovative, although they could invest most of the money in innovative material procurement, but also, for example, energy-saving machines or the like. The future is called

is issued by the International Association of the Natural Textile Industry (IVN) based in Stuttgart. Independent testing centers in Switzerland and Germany then check whether the textiles were made without child labor, forced labor and the like and made of natural fibers without the use of chemicals that are harmful to the environment and health. www.naturtextil.com Öko-Tex Standard 1000 This seal is awarded and checked by independent textile testing institutes that have formed a community based in Zurich. In addition to ecological requirements, social standards must also be met. The Oeko-Tex 100 (in contrast to the Oeko-Tex 1000) was introduced in 1992 and initially campaigned for a minimization of harmful substances in textile production, while at the same time the hazard potential of the problematic substances was to be recorded. The Oeko-Tex 1000 supplements these standards with the testing and certification of environmentally friendly production sites. www.oeko-tex1000.com


A matter of course. The aim should be that sustainably produced fashion is not something special, but has a significant impact on the market. The customer should not be denied fashion consciousness, but rather a new awareness of his surroundings should be acquired. The traces that our way of life leave on our planet must naturally weaken in the future.

epu.wko.at The Internet portal for one-person companies.

INDEPENDENT VERIFICATION ORGANIZATIONS In the early 1990s, codes of conduct were introduced in the apparel industry to which numerous companies submit. If a company is subject to these codes, this does not yet mean that their products have actually been manufactured under absolutely fair working conditions - these are above all guide values ​​that are regularly checked and are intended to prevent excessively gross excesses.

Ethical Trading Initiative (ETI) This ethical trading initiative was founded in Great Britain in 1998 and, like the FWF, is an association of trade unions and NGOs. The ETI also advocates similar criteria and reviews them annually. The ETI currently reports to Gap, Marks & Spencer, Monsoon Accessorize and Zara, among other brands. www.ethicaltrade.org Fair Labor Association (FLA) The FLA was founded in America in 1998 under President Clinton with the aim of putting an end to sweatshop work. This organization also consists of trade unions, NGOs and the like. Prohibitions of child and forced labor as well as discrimination are just as much a part of the provisions as regulated working hours, the payment of statutory minimum wages and the remuneration of overtime. The FLA reports to major brands such as Adidas, Asics, H&M and Umbro. www.fairlabor.org

http://epu.wko.at

Fair Wear Foundation (FWF) This foundation was established in 1999 by business associations, trade unions and non-governmental organizations (NGO) in the Netherlands. There are annual controls that prevent forced labor, discrimination and child labor and guarantee a wage that is sufficient to live on. Large companies such as Mexx, Hess Natur or Gsus have adopted their codes of conduct. www.fairwear.nl

The portal offers selected information on the topics of taxes, law, business administration and financing / subsidies. Using EPU-OnlineCheck, risk and development potential can be tested quickly and easily. Numerous interactive features invite you to establish collaborations and networks. Benefit from free secret tips from EPU for EPU. Let's do it together - the Austrian Chambers of Commerce.


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Text_Magdalena Vukovic Photos_Hess Nature

Fashion and awareness: Miguel Adrover The Spanish fashion designer and former darling of the American fashion scene, Miguel Adrover, has been the creative director of the German eco-brand Hess Natur since spring. It was a short, rocky road from glamorous New York to down-to-earth Butzbach: the portrait of a lateral thinker who conscientiously rebels.

I.

Within the golden cages of high fashion designers, it is good form to rebel - well dosed, mind you. The countless birds of paradise of the scene know how to stage themselves with a lot of drama. It is applied thickly: a little too little fabric in the right places, a little too shabby or the models simply

send backwards down the catwalk. Fashion is more than just croaking and cawing out of thin necks. The uprising seems superficial and an actual break with fashion business practices is hard to find - and it's that simple. Five years ago the Spanish

che designer Miguel Adrover is a rising star in the New York fashion sky. The press was full of praise and found a new favorite. In the fall of 2000, Adrover showed its second collection "Midtwown" in New York and hit a nerve. Following the practices of the Belgian deconstructivists, he integrated and modified old ones


Vintage pieces. Without further ado, he rolled up a Burberry trench coat and put it on the model the wrong way round. The label was now visible for everyone on the wearer's chest. That was a strong statement against fixed rules in two respects. Miguel Adrover used an already existing material source and showed awareness of sustainable production - recycling, so to speak. On the other hand, of course, this was a thoroughly cynical comment on the brand madness and the overly respectful treatment of luxury goods. The course for his later work was laid and what had been understood as avant-garde defiance up to now actually arose from a need for more reason. Miguel Adrover was born in Mallorca in 1965. At the age of twelve he decided against the institutionalized way of education, dropped out of school and from then on worked on his parents' almond farm. In the early nineties he went to New York to successfully make fashion without any relevant training and to find sponsors who enabled him to start his own brand. But luck did not last long and his financial resources quickly dried up. An unfortunate coincidence, connected to the terrible events of September 11th, dramatically heralded the downfall of the Spaniard in the American fashion scene. On September 9th, Adrover showed a collection inspired by the Middle East and a trip to Egypt. However, large caftans, harem pants and neat turbans could no longer be bestsellers after the attacks. The fashion scene just wasn't ripe for its uncompromising reviews. The media liked to emphasize his meteoric rise, from a window cleaner to a designer who Anna Wintour was able to count among his audience. After the collapse of his own brand and his move to Hess Natur, however, it has become quiet about the bearded eccentric. Adrover has turned its back on the hustle and bustle of trendy New York. Today he lives again temporarily in Mallorca and makes fashion with a clear conscience, as he says himself. He is an unusual designer whose role as a pioneer is determined by his sustainably produced fashion. Since the beginning of 2008, Adrover has been employed as the creative director of the German eco-brand Hess Natur and, according to the contract, will remain so for the next five years. The managing director Wolf Lüdge himself flew to Mallorca to forestall the American major label Tommy Hilfiger, which also had its eye on the designer. Adrover decided on Hess Natur: the concept of high-quality, sustainably produced everyday clothing


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corresponds to his understanding of fashion. The mail order company with two branches in Germany and based in the Hessian town of Butzbach has been selling natural textiles throughout Europe for over thirty years. Attempts are currently being made to expand the company to America by September, and so found Miguel Adrover

Wool crepe. The designer mastered the balancing act between eco and sophisticated fashion. Miguel Adrover's oeuvre is not determined by short-lived trends, but rather by an interest in current, global problems. Against this background, avant-garde fashion appears, which is merely based on

»

The days of organic t-shirts with bold slogans are hopefully numbered ...

the perfect ambassador. A small collection of high-quality materials with unusual cuts was created for this autumn. There are currently ten pieces, mainly coats and trousers, made of cashmere, fine new wool and lambskin, with prices ranging from 100 to 1,400 euros. The highlight is an extravagant black riding trousers made of flowing

Concentrated modifications of existing cuts, downright backward and unworldly. The concept of Hess Natur and Adrover, on the other hand, is progressive. One rebels with united strength against the practices of the fashion business. It's not so much about improving the musty reputation of eco-fashion - according to the motto, too

Jute can be sexy or “green is the new black” - and put on a par with conventional fashion. Eco fashion has its own charm that is hidden in the concept. The consumer is aware of the environmentally friendly production and is thus setting a discreet sign. The days of organic T-shirts with bold slogans are hopefully numbered, because awareness should be more comprehensive. The fashion from Hess Natur and Adrover is sensible, has soul and is for real people. These facts are so unusual in the exalted fashion industry today that they actually have a revolutionary character. When Miguel Adrover has everything wrapped up with Hess Natur, he is planning his own collection in New York again next year. It goes without saying that the end product must meet high standards. In any case, Adrover fulfills all requirements for the second time and will know how to use the responsibility that rests on its shoulders as a creative engine.


The natural is in every garment made from Lenzing fibers and accompanies the wearer through the day.

Model "Zitronenfalter" made of Lenzing Tencell fiber by Karin Maislinger (www.kontiki.or.at). Winner of the ECO Textile AWARD 08 / Lenzing Botanic.

Lenzing fibers are obtained from plants, which use photosynthesis to convert carbon dioxide and water into wood and pure oxygen. With nano fi goggles, TENCEL® can store a great deal of moisture and quickly release it back into the environment. Lenzing only uses wood from sustainable forestry for the production of TENCEL®. TENCEL® is made from wood and is therefore 100% natural and biodegradable. Nature becomes nature again. www.lenzing.com


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I free mi

Text_Ursel Nendzig Photos_Stefan Knittel

Handmade shoes, a rarity in and of themselves. If they are still being made in the Waldviertel, it is worth taking a closer look. A tour of the last shoe workshop in Lower Austria.

G

abi paints the mug on black leather. With a silver pen, as she explains, around the outside of the template. She also explains what is special about the mug: "It is made from a single piece of leather." She draws the holes through which the laces will later be pulled and marks the front and side centers by using a hammer hits a pin that punches a small hole in the leather. A knife is also used. With it she follows the line, "inside, not outside, otherwise the silver line will be on the leather", cleverly

and practiced, you can see that. And one also hears: "I've been working here for twelve years." Here, this is the Waldviertel shoe workshop, embroidery department. She draws cuts on leather, cuts them out and sews the upper leather onto the inner leather. Always twelve, six right and six left shoes at once, then all over again. Your favorite model? Gabi leans her head back and scans the shelf behind her with her eyes, where the cuts of fifty pairs of shoes are kept, each in at least ten sizes. "The dresser is my favorite," she says finally. The customers also have the dresser

preferably because its design - the lowered heel for an upright posture - has never been changed. It has been in the program since 1984 and the Waldviertel shoe workshop has been around for just as long. In the meantime the range has grown and new shoes with new names have been added. The names on the outside of the boxes promise »golden eagle«, »dance miracle« or »Moulin Rouge«. The boxes are stacked up in the warehouse, head-high, and Iris is just packing them. She looks for the models that are listed on an order form and layers the natural paper boxes


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in a big box and taped it shut. The orders come from the 22 partner shoe stores in Austria and recently also in Switzerland and Germany, but also directly from private customers. Iris knows all the model numbers, even the color numbers, by heart. "At the moment," says Iris, "the warehouse is as good as empty!" Usually the stacks, like a skyline, reach up to the ceiling. But because there is a change between summer and winter seasons, the warehouse is not that full. "I gfrei mi" is written on a pillar in the storage room. "I gfrei mi" is also a sentence that goes with Heini. Heini is the shoe workshop. Out of nowhere, he says, who is always funny and friendly, he became an entrepreneur. More than 20 years ago he bought "Earth Shoes" in Denmark with 300,000 shillings borrowed from friends, because he liked them. And sold them, quite successfully, in Austria. His entry into the shoe

branch. A few years later, in 1984, the Waldviertel shoe workshop was founded as a self-administered company with the support of the Ministry of Social Affairs, the labor market administration and the Catholic Church. In 1991 Heini and GEA, the main buyer of Waldviertel shoes from the start, took over the workshop as the majority owner. He breathed life into her, helped her to achieve an image that is also his. Grounded, uncomplicated, traditional, of good quality. Because that, says Heini, is what everything is derived from. He doesn't just mean the quality of the shoes, for which they are also known, that is not enough. The people who make these shoes should be fine too. Just like the region. Establishing his workshop in the Waldviertel was brave. The courage was rewarded. The Waldviertlers are the last shoe manufacturers to stay in Lower Austria. Fifty people work in the workshop in Schrems, the next

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Shoes also makes furniture, both of which are sold through GEA. Cars are parked in the inner courtyard, two rows behind each other, the one in the back parks the one in front. An unmistakable sign: We know each other. There are no surnames either, they are all by name. And everyone is wearing Waldviertler shoes. Buildings are grouped around the inner courtyard, production has been buzzing, rattling and rattling since six in the morning. Work begins for the people in the workshop, and there is a half-hour break at ten. Then work again until half past two. The production hall used to be a wire drawing shop, but recently it was enlarged and renewed. It's a lot brighter now than it was before. Two hundred pairs of shoes are made here, from cutting to final inspection. Handcrafted. There is a smell of rubber, glue and leather between the shelves that hold the lasts, insoles and outsoles


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are stored. The machines are old, but "the best", agree those who work on them. The half-finished shoes are pushed from workstation to workstation on mobile shelves and each time they turn into shoes a little more. From the quilting, where Gabi sewed leather on the outside on the inside, the upper sides of the shoes make their way to the next "station". The upper sides of the shoe are stretched over a last and "pinched". In doing so, explains Markus, a decision is made about the fit of the shoes. The lasts are something like the closely guarded secret recipe of a shoe manufacturer and determine the instep height and shape. Markus clamps the shoes in a machine, pushes a thin piece of fabric between the upper and lower leather, which is heated and releases an adhesive. The adhesive bonds to both layers of leather and forms the toe cap of the shoe. At the moment the one

"Hitchhiker". Like all the workers in the workshop, Markus was trained here. Skilled shoemakers are rare, there are currently two apprentices in the Waldviertel. Markus stacks the finished, "pinched" shoes back on the transport shelf. A small sign is attached to it: "Shoes are urgent" it says. An order that is brought forward. Now midsoles come on, at first only with glue. The glue stinks. Thomas stands at a powerful and noisy sewing machine and then uses the "flexible seam" to connect the upper to the midsole. Precision is required, the machine sews incredibly quickly, the seam has to be right. In a few seconds, Markus, who is wearing headphones, switches to the next shoe. Incidentally, there is health advice and massages for all employees, free of charge. All that's missing now is the black rubber sole - the one, just like that

Leather that is bought in from Italy or the Czech Republic. Where there are still manufacturers in Europe who can deliver the desired quality. After a short stop at the grinding machine, the protruding rubber scraps are removed from the shoe. Only the final inspection. Nothing escapes Anneliese's stern look. If a shoe is not perfect, it is rejected. If it is perfect, it comes to Iris in boxes and then to the warehouse. Andrea's workplace is between all the roaring machines. She is responsible for repairs, an important component of the Waldviertler philosophy, which is the exact opposite of throwing away. Andrea receives wrinkled, totally worn shoes, which she then subjects to a full service. She changes soles, sometimes not just the outsole, but the outer and inner soles, renews seams, sometimes also the laces. The


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The team decides on the designs. Not only about the design, but also whether it is feasible to manufacture them with the available resources - here, of course, in Schrems. Because one thing is clear: The people of Waldviertel will continue to honor their name in the future.

Repair service is in demand and Andrea is very busy. Actually, she says, orders are coming in all the time. She uses the machine she needs right now. Bernadette turns the corner and is greeted happily by everyone. She is a designer and has been in a relationship with the Waldviertel residents for about a year."So far, they have developed or improved the shoes themselves." Since she returned from England, where she studied design, she has been the first designer to come from "outside". "This is new for the people of Waldviertel," she says. But it works. Prototypes are piled up in her office, all of them top secret, designed by her. A few of your ideas have already been implemented, others have been discarded after a trial model was made. One is open to her ideas and is happy about the creative power she brings with her.

EXHIBITIONS PASSION PATHS SPECIALS

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Waldviertel on the Internet: www.gea.at

TALKS PARTY

FILM PRESENTATIONS

KIDS

GUIDED TOURS


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Autumn brings the summer exuberance of airy dresses back down to earth: it should now be warming and, above all, heartwarming. Even in the colder months of the year, the conscious consumer has a huge selection of high-quality, sustainable fashion. The possibilities range from biological natural fibers to innovative, recycled materials to individual solutions such as the processing of your own stocks. Many young labels naturally produce according to sustainable criteria. Kuyichi from Holland (via www.b-dressed. Com), Onagono (via www.glore.de) or the Berlin label Slowmo (www.slowmo.de) show a new fashion awareness that is not overshadowed by forced labor and harmful chemicals.

JEMVIV, ERHIP

) VLmPXPMGL MQ * EGLLERHIP YRH HMVIOX FIM * EVJEPPE) WWIRXMEPW% + ˆ [[[JEVJEPPE IY

Ana shoes (Terra Plana), trousers (Kuyichi), t-shirt (Katherine E. Hamnett), jacket (Onagono), jacket (Slowmo), scarf (Modus Vivendi), bracelet + earrings (Weltladen) Michi shoes (Terra Plana) , Trousers (Kuyichi), long-sleeved shirt (Hess Natur), jacket (manifestos), scarf (Modus Vivendi)


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Martina shoes (Terra Plana), tights (Hess Natur), dress (Kuyichi), blouse (fin), Trechnchcoat (fin), hat (Humana) Lukas shoes (Terra Plana), trousers (Slowmo), shirt (Hess Natur), Jacket (slowmo)


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Anna socks (Stylist's own), knee socks (Hess Natur), panties (Pants to Poverty), long-sleeved shirt (Armed Angels), T-shirt (Katherine E. Hamnett), headband (modus vivendi) Ana shoes (Ethletic), leggings (Onagono ), Bra (Hess Natur), hoodie (Armed Angels)


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Lukas shoes (Hess Natur), trousers (Slowmo), T-shirt (Armed Angels), shirt (house of the very island's) Ana shoes (Terra Plana), tights (Hess Natur), dress (Misericordia), vest (Modus Vivendi ), Bag (stylist's own), hair products (Lessismore)


Anna shoes (Terra Plana), pants (Miguel Adrover for Hess Natur), t-shirt (Ainoah), blazer (Miguel Adrover for Hess Natur), chain (Weltladen), bag (Kontiki) Michi shoes (Simple), jeans (Levi's ), Polo shirt (panda snack), jacket (slowmo)


Martina shoes (Simple), gauntlets (Hess Natur), leather pants (Humana), T-shirt (Ainoah), hat (Stylistâ & # x20AC; & # x2122; s own), bangles (Weltladen) Michi shoes (Hess Natur), trousers (Patagonia), polo shirt (Ainoah), vest (Modus Vivendi)

Photographer Kurt Prinz Production Milo Tesselaar, Magdalena Vukovic Styling Magdalena Vukovic Models Ana, Anna, Lukas, Martina, Michi Hair lessismore, www.lessismore.at Makeup Stefanie Lamm with products by Dr. Hauschka made available, from Apotheke zum Rothen Krebs, Lichtensteg 4, 1010 Vienna, www. krebsapotheke.at, www.makeupart.at, Thanks to Heidrun (www.b-dressed.com), Bernd (www.glore.de), Hannes (lessismore) and Denise


NATURAL COSMETICS FROM FAIR TRADE from October in every well-stocked world shop and at www.eza.cc


"TRADITION IS THE TRANSFER OF FIRE AND NOT THE ADORATION OF ASHES."

Gumpendorferstrasse 30 & 33, A-1060 Vienna, T: + 43/1/586 13 63, [email protected], www.saint.info


Text_Gregor Schenker Photos_Labels

Eco-fashion network The meeting of constant further developments in the web area and in sustainable fashion production has led to a few interesting, new economic models. BIORAMA presents four of them.

D.

he "Social Fashion Revolution" proclaimed Martin Höfeler and Anton Jurina from Cologne. The young entrepreneurs have been combative with their T-shirt label Armed Angels since 2007. International street art graffiti artists such as the Swiss DARE stand by their side in their community

and celebrities like the actor Jürgen Vogel or Thomas D from Fanta 4 are available as endorsers. The brightly colored T-shirts are made from organic cotton produced in India, are sewn fairly in Portugal and cost between 35 and 50 euros. For every part sold, one euro goes to one in three

Aid projects. The Pratham educational project trains women in India to be teachers and organizes infrastructure for teaching. Viva con agua, a project by the former soccer player Benjamin Adrion, takes care of the drinking water supply and the drinking water forest plants environmentally friendly deciduous forests. Which one


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The buyer can decide for himself on the project he wants to support. Anyone who registers in the Armed Angels community can also contribute to the creation of new products. Be it in design, as a model or as an advertising ambassador. The message from Armed Angels, whose logo is adorned with a chic angel with a Robin Hood's bow and arrow, is clear: Style with attitude. The American surf fashion company nvohk (pronounced: invok) goes one step further when it comes to integrating the community. What is meant is calling on a higher power, which is to stand by with advice, action and inspiration. In the case of this project, which was started by Californian Brendan Lynch in December 2007, the higher power means the community of members. Anyone can participate in the company for a membership fee of $ 50. When 20,000 members are registered, the rights and obligations of community members begin to take effect. You get an organic cotton shirt to start with and, with the option to pay, you can submit your own design proposals, both for fashion and for the logo. Decisions that affect the company's fortunes are also made jointly and democratically. The members also participate in the net profit, with 35 percent according to a point system. Nvohk thus manage to transfer crowdsourcing, such as Wikipedia, to the fashion industry. Of course, with ecological standards as far as the materials of the products are concerned. In addition, 10 percent of the profit is to be donated to environmental projects. That should

however, keep within limits. So far, only 450 members have registered. The Viennese label Re-Shirt is taking a different approach to crowd sourcing. The ecological approach that the young company, behind which Shapeshifter Information Management GmbH is, is recycling with style. Recycling that wants to be more than just an internet second hand boutique. It relies entirely on used goods with a history. T-shirts are not only accepted as a donation, but are archived with the associated history, restored and given a numbered orange-colored label. They are then available for 25 euros. This is interesting insofar as here, as with myspace or other web 2.0 platforms, the content is generated by the community, but in this case on an old economy basis, the network only serves as a shop. This approach is also similar to MTV and HP's e-donor campaign, which aims to encourage youngsters to upcycle old tech gadgets, like outdated computers. Another recycling fashion label would be Luxusbaba from Munich, which works with Caritas. In addition to the Internet, the Re-Shirts are also available at the MQ-Point in the Museumsquartier in Vienna. If you're lucky, you can also buy a collector's item like the "Donald Dark" shirt designed by Alf Poier. If that's too camp for you, you can still make do with the Humana or the Fetzenmarkt. The Berlin label Pamoyo by Dutchman Frans Prins and Swede Cecilia Palmer offers like Armed

Angels products made from organic cotton - in this case from Turkey and Uganda - are much less combative and more romantic. With the slogan “Change the world with style”, tank tops, shirts and dresses in a cross between retro and neo are touted for between 25 and 49 euros. Of this, 2 euros each go to »social environmental projects« carried out by the in-house Grass Routes Foundation. Grass Routes Foundation, for example, runs the "Fair Fashion Affair" in Berlin, which aims to draw attention to the ecological and economic deficits of the fashion industry and offers workshops on the topic of sustainable fashion. It goes without saying that Pamoyo therefore also uses recycled, old fabrics. The resulting creations are unique pieces. The label is community-based. Designers are invited to send their designs to Pamoyo to expand the range. The fact that the in-house cuts run under a Creative Commons license and can therefore be copied privately is a nice idea, but cuts are not protected by copyright anyway. In any case, the cut of a Pamoyo shirt can already be downloaded from the in-house website in order to recut or change it. The site's over-used blog, which has lots of interesting links, is also well worth a visit.

www.armedangels.de www.nvohk.com www.re-shirt.net www.pamoyo.com


Utopia Award Choose the role models of the year 2008. Now at www.utopia.de


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Text_ Jutta Strohmeier Illustration_Käthe Ivansich

Handicrafts versus mass production It has been tinkered with in a quiet little room: Homemade things are no longer just second best, they could even increasingly compete with established brands. At least that is how the two Berlin trend researchers Holm Friebe and Thomas Ramge see it in their new book “Brand Eigenbau. The revolt of the masses against mass production «.

When people "craft" today, they want to sell what they have made themselves. Apparently hobbies have lost their relaxing function. Isn't that worrying? Friebe: I absolutely do not think so. This is such a purely academic, paper rustling suspicion that it is the transfer of the exploitation logic into all private areas. In practice it feels very different. For a long time, the hobby was a purposeless, compensatory sport - mostly practiced by men in the hobby room as a counterbalance to regular work that was perceived as less than satisfactory. Now there is a new seriousness: it arises at the moment when someone else expresses their appreciation by paying money. That increases the fun of the matter. Because you also get feedback from the market. But the producers in these niche markets don't always do it for sheer joy. In fact, these are also people who have become redundant on the job market.

Friebe: That's the cliché. I don't think there are those people who say: I'm so desperate, I'm starting jewelry design now. We're talking about other milieus. Those who become superfluous on the labor market are unfortunately the classic losers from globalization. Naturally, they lack carefreeness. At best, they open a lottery acceptance point, with which they then suffer shipwreck. Then who are the producers of the self-made brand? Friebe: Classically, one suspects the well-trained creative professions, academics and artists. In fact, I believe that the only thing that matters is to develop outstanding expertise in a field. This can be trout farming or certain hobbyist niche cultures that have to do with cars. People have already made a living from knowing a certain classic car model down to the last screw. These are the new niche markets that cannot easily be grouped under one bracket. New market options are constantly emerging - and leave it in

Be the surprise egg figure segment. As long as it offers a certain relevance for a certain group, something emerges from it. How can do-it-yourself work as an earnings model? Friebe: It is not that all of these activities are being practiced with the aim of making a million in the back of the mind. Few of them fully rely on this card and say, I have to live on it now. Many have a job on the side and discover that they can earn a nice extra income thanks to platforms such as www.etsy.com. How each individual balances and balances that is a different matter. Today, a person is no longer just what he does professionally, but also what he does as a part-time or part-time job. Hybrid economies emerge in which fantasy, enthusiasm for a cause plays a role. And it easily reaches orders of magnitude where significant sales are slumbering behind. They believe that capitalism is local and small-scale


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Production structures become more humane. Why? Friebe: At the individual level, it becomes more humane because people are no longer forced through the eye of a needle, which job advertisements or chambers of commerce define as professions. People can no longer be good in just one area, they can develop the full spectrum of their personalities. In terms of economic structure, I believe that capitalism that functions in smaller structures and more regional cycles forms a more robust and humane economic world overall. The pathologies of large-scale organizations disappear. The products again show a reference to the producer. All of these factors contribute to making this whole globalization event seem a little more human. Many of the self-builders and craftsmen only produce one-offs or small series. Does that mean that shortages are becoming chic? Friebe: You have to differentiate: Deficiency is felt to be painful

Absence. It is less about scarcity than scarcity. The luxury brands - which are expensive, but rarely as rare as works of art, because you don't know how high the circulation is - products about which you can tell a story. Due to the production background alone, the number of pieces is so strictly limited that only a few people can have it because it can no longer be produced. Or it is known that there is only an edition of 100 pieces. Or they are actually unique. From the point at which these criteria become a true status indicator and the self-made brand actually becomes sexy from a brand point of view, the big lifestyle brands get a problem. But to what extent can this movement put pressure on mass production? Friebe: It does that massively. The big brands of the industrial age and the production conditions are not in a position to easily serve these new markets. Brands emerge overnight that you

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Know the clientele much better and arise from deep conviction and existential better knowledge. In the eco segment, for example, we find very few brands that already existed ten years ago: The top of the movement is driving the big brands that are only slowly trying to understand what is happening. That already puts them under pressure. Do these scattered producers have common political demands? Friebe: The far-flung poles are the blacksmith in Vienna and the open source programmer in California. There is no common class situation in the classic sense of the labor movement. But politicians as a whole would like to see more acceptance and a more considerate approach to the conditions of such a production and the résumés behind it. Holm Friebe, Thomas Ramge: Self-made brand. The uprising of the masses against mass production, Frankfurt am Main, Campus Verlag, 240 pages. marke-eigenbau.org/beta


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Between heaven and earth The Meinklang winery recalls centuries-old knowledge in dealing with nature and matures wine in concrete eggs instead of barrique barrels. Text_Astrid Schwarz Photos_Marco Rossi (www.abzug.at)

Pamhagen is located in the outermost Seewinkel in Burgenland, just before the Hungarian border. The place seems a little sleepy, has around 1800 inhabitants. The house at number 86 on the main street, its smooth brown facade, the elongated windows and the crouched driveway, stand out. But that doesn't bother anyone here. Word has long since got around that the Michlits winery works unconventionally. Here, wine is not only grown and processed according to biological aspects, but also according to biodynamic principles. The vines are not sprayed with chemical bombers, but with teas and plant essences - similar to homeopathy - stimulated to a natural growth. At first you don't notice anything of the mystical background, which is often ridiculed by competitors. Through the driveway you enter an idyll. In harmony with nature.In the courtyard, two little girls are playing under the birch in the late summer sun. Farm buildings made of concrete and wood extend in the background. A huge wooden table invites you to sit in the shade. Bamboo, herbs and bushes grow over the

Court. Angela and Werner Michlits relax with fresh, homemade apple pie and homemade apple juice. A break with the daughters is rare. In the family business, which also consists of cattle, grain and fruit farming, there is work all year round. After studying in Germany, Werner and Angela Michlits took over the winery from their parents five years ago and renamed it Meinklang. M stands for the family name, the rest is self-explanatory. Angela Michlits is a career changer in viticulture and the cellar master at the winery. In Germany, the two met, got married and, on their return, converted the winery from organic to biodynamic. They cultivate the 60 hectares of vineyards according to Demeter principles. The biodynamic added value wine has been grown as a monoculture for centuries. The soil is compacted by the tractors' traces, which are always the same, the weeds are destroyed and the humus is severely degraded, so that no organic one

Food for the microbes remains in the soil. Artificial fertilizers have depleted the soil in conventional viticulture. Farmers became aware of the environmentally harmful handling as early as the 1920s. Rudolf Steiner, the founder of anthroposophy, published some basic writings in 1924, which still serve as role models for biodynamic agriculture today. The focus is on the agricultural operation, which is integrated into the landscape with its individual flora and fauna. Agriculture means cultivating the natural land through human activity in such a way that food is produced from it. The primary goal of biodynamic farming is to build a vital farm organism that can supply the population with healthy food. (demeter.at) "Live with nature" is the motto at the Meinklang winery. The plants need time to get used to natural conditions again. Angela and Werner Michlits observe the growth in their


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Biorama No. 07⁄08

Vineyards precisely, orient themselves towards the moon and stars in order to determine the right time for fertilization, pruning and sowing of green plants. Not only the ascending or descending constellation of the moon is taken into account, but also the position of the stars in the sky. Plants live according to their own rhythm, just like humans. The more this rhythm is observed, the better the plant can develop. The wooden coffin in the vault Werner Michlits makes the fertilizer preparations himself. At the equinox, cow skulls are filled with oak bark and buried in the bog, where they rot airtight. The skull is then split open and the contents removed. Odorless, fine humus that is used as an informative fertilizer. A small amount of it is dissolved in water and applied. What sounds quite adventurous and mystical has a long tradition. Centuries ago

people knew about the influence of the stars and the moon on people and plants. Demeter farmers try to apply this old knowledge again. The cow has a special place as a digestive animal. The skull and horn are also filled with digestive gases and are an indispensable part of rumination. The farmers use this knowledge to get the metabolism of the plants going. What sounds like Birkenstock and wool sock esotericism brings solid facts. In Australia, studies have shown that biodynamically tended vines have many more roots than conventionally treated vines. Nevertheless, you have to believe in it a little, says Werner Michlits. Concretely in concrete People live with the rhythm of nature. So the wine also experiences the year authentically. In the concrete wine cellar there is always a little daylight, there isn't any

Air conditioning that could create perfect conditions for storage. Temperature fluctuations are part of it and the wine benefits from them. It becomes more nuanced. The red grapes are fermented in 4 meter high stainless steel tanks that hold 15,000 liters. Without the addition of yeast, Meinklang relies on what is known as spontaneous fermentation. You just wait for the wine to start fermenting by itself. The liquid is then drained off and the rest falls down a slide into the basement. There the press squeezes the last of the liquid out of the mash. Last year the St. Laurent was not filled into barrique barrels as it used to be, but found its new resting place in 3 concrete eggs. Concrete is much more fine-pored than wood and allows the wine to constantly absorb air. The concrete egg leaves the wine its varietal aroma and does not impose a wood aroma on it as in the barrique barrel. Such an egg holds 300 liters and weighs 1800 kg. Its shape was


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designed according to the golden ratio. Compared to the conventional barrel, the egg has a blatant advantage. It has no corners and therefore the wine can circulate. The taste can evolve and is constantly changing. Angela and Werner Michlits are constantly experimenting, trying and questioning their concepts. You have also already ordered new concrete eggs that will hold 900 liters. Their size reduces the uptake of oxygen, which the Michlits expect better results for the wine. Anyone who can identify with the idea can sponsor an egg. Graupert Meinklang also treads unusual paths with white wine. The Pinot Gris is not cut or its growth is inhibited. »Graupert« means »wild« in the dialect, which means that the vineyard regulates the growth itself - and the result is very promising. Even if vineyards left to nature only cause the neighboring winegrowers to shake their heads: The biodynamically cultivated wine brings previously unimagined nuances to the fore on the palate and is valued worldwide. It just takes time to let nature (again) find its own way. But that doesn't bother anyone at Meinklang. It is a beginning.

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46–

Biorama No. 07⁄08

Text_Michael Huber, Nina Roth Illustration_Sig Ganhör

Turbo Boost in the refrigerated section New types of milk are the harbingers of a new generation of longer-lasting foods. Some innovations give reason to hope that shelf life does not always have to come at the expense of taste and ecological compatibility. What actually happened to the milk? The white food seems to have been quietly reinvented in the past few months. There are many packs on the refrigerated shelves with significantly longer shelf lives without new product names and advertising campaigns loudly referring to the innovation. Only stickers like "The longer fresh" indicate that the contents of one pack lasts more than a week longer than the "normal" pasteurized milk next to it. »ESL« is the technical magic word for the new product line. The acronym stands for “Extended Shelf Life” and, in addition to milk, subsumes a whole range of usually pasteurized foods that have undergone a gentle relaunch: juices, cheese and beer also benefit from the fountain of youth in the food industry. The ways to push the shelf life, however, quickly get lost in a tangle of methods.

If some shelf life techniques are just old shock tactics in a new guise, some innovations give reason to hope that shelf life, taste and sustainability can be reconciled. The fact that "ESL" milk no longer has to taste like a cow that has been beaten to death is thanks to what is known as deep filtration. The milk is pressed through a membrane with ultra-fine pores that sift out various components of the milk. With »microfiltration« bacteria, fat globules and mold can be separated at the molecular level, further filters can isolate protein particles that are used, for example, in cheese production. The milk is thus broken down into its spectrum and reassembled - the liquid is thus easier to control in all of its facets. There is great potential in filter technology, which is also used for juices and beer: ideally

This saves you from heat treatments that mess up the protein structure of the milk and kill sensitive nutrients. The energy balance of microfiltered milk, which is bottled and processed under more stringent hygiene conditions, also points in a positive direction: there is no need for time-consuming cooling and heating steps, and the highest energy consumption occurs where the liquid is pressed through the membrane. The industry is already predicting milk that can be kept for six months at room temperature and will no longer differ in taste from "normal" pasteurized milk. It's not that far yet, and there are numerous hybrid forms in supermarkets that combine old and new technologies. The "classic" pasteurized milk is heated to 72 to 75 degrees Celsius for 15 to 30 seconds, which means that the majority of the heat-sensitive micro-


kills roorganisms (yeasts, molds). Pasteurized milk lasts 8 to 14 days, filtration can further reduce the proportion of microorganisms. The nutrient content of the milk remains relatively high, on average less than 20 percent of the vitamins are lost.

A DROP OF PERFECTION.

The fact that ESL milk can be marketed with the argument of its fresh taste is due to the fact that no strange caramel taste mixes into the glass. The radical cure for milk shelf life, the Ultra High Temperature Treatment (UHT), drives the liquid up to 135 to 150 degrees Celsius within a few seconds, the milk sugar caramelises and gives the "long-life milk" its typical taste.

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Under the banner of "Extended Shelf Life", however, not only packs of pasteurized and filtered milk are sailing, but also products that boast of "particularly gentle" ultra-high heating. The so-called "High Temperature Treatment" (HTT) stops at temperatures of a maximum of 135 degrees Celsius, which gives it more flavor, but does not exclude residues of germs. The technology was perfected in combination with the filter process and sterile filling - but in the end what flashes off the shelves with the slogan “freshness” is nothing more than slightly better long-life milk. Although organic ESL milk varieties have long been on the market, Swiss organic organizations have criticized the process as "overprocessing."

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