How to seal Lexan boat windows

  1. 03.04.2011, 00:26#1
    Registered since
    14.04.2002
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    Plexiglas or Lexan or what?

    Would like to install new side windows - approx. 2 m long and approx. 15-20 cm high. The surface in which they are installed is slightly curved and the old Plexiglas windows (8 mm) started to form stress cracks after a few years.

    Ask:
    - Can you lend a hand and bend Plexiglas yourself slightly - with the supply of heat?
    - Which other materials fulfill the same functions and are possibly easier to handle (also: to glue) or have other advantages. There is movement in this scene - right?

    greeting
    Rolf

    http://www.korsika-toern.de

  2. 03.04.2011, 08:55#2
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  3. 03.04.2011, 09:35#3
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    I would also use acrylic (PMMA, Plexi), polycarbonate (Makrolon, Lexan) is tougher but much more sensitive to scratches, which becomes unsightly after a short time. Bending radii see kuckstdu, the usual bends on the cabin superstructure are easy to handle.
    Attention for the order: the development is not a rectangle! Measuring length and maximum width is not enough. Place a sheet of paper over the pane, press the outlines of the pane, place the sheet on a flat surface, and then measure.
    Acrylic can be bent very tightly under heat (hot air blower) (about 2x material thickness), I made countless special parts on board this way.

    Greetings Franz

  4. 03.04.2011, 12:38#4
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    The best way to bend is to make a template with the correct bend.
    Metal is best, but wood is also possible.
    Then put the plexiglass disc on top and heat it to 150-170 degrees celcius.
    This is best done in a closed box that is heated with hot air, similar to bending wood.
    The plexiglass will sit exactly according to the template.
    Ad

  5. 03.04.2011, 16:26#5
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    Plexi and then carefully thermoforming - polycarbonate is harder, but that's exactly where the crux lies: on the surface you have ratchets in no time at all, which refract the light in a strange way.

  6. 03.04.2011, 17:23#6
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    Quote by bajou
    ....... - Polycarbonate is harder, ........
    Not at all, bajou,
    it is considerably tougher and stronger but not harder. It can be deformed considerably when cold; acrylic breaks due to its greater hardness.
    If it is the usual bend around the structure, no increased temperature is required. If the disc is badly deformed, as is the case with some older ridge types, work must be carried out on a mold under heat (see BlankenAd).

    Greetings Franz

  7. 03.04.2011, 19:50#7
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    Thank's for the Tipps!

    And with what stick? Will you stay with Sikaflex 295 UV or are there other recommendations? (Plexiglass on teak rail)

    greeting
    Rolf

  8. 03.04.2011, 20:02#8
    Registered since
    20.01.2011
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    Hello Corsican skipper,
    I had your window problem on my boat last year: My pane is about 1.5m long, 25 cm high and open at one end
    22cm tapering with bevelled ends on both sides. The gentle bending of the disc over the entire length about 2cm. number
    of the mounting holes 26 for 5mm through-bolts 6.2 mm drilled (important because of the thermal expansion). The broken disk
    I gave a Plexiglas company as a sample, who made a new 8 mm disc made to measure for me, also with the drilled holes. Cost = 85 €. If you want to drill the holes yourself, the drill should have the special cut for Plexiglas
    glass, otherwise the ends of the holes will tear. When installing this length, the pane does not need to be heat-treated
    but there should be spacers every 8-10cm. I have worked and made with the "Sikaflex system"
    me the spacers from the mass 10 by 8 by 4 mm (thick) from a long hardened strand itself, which also in
    To fix the pane, I used 2 approx. 5cm long threaded rods at the ends
    After applying the adhesive sealant, slowly press the pane into position. The spacers create a floating seat. Cut off leaked sealant with the cutter after it has hardened. Tip: Got from SVB-Bremen
    I get a DVD and a Sikaflex system manual (clearer) free of charge on request.
    wall of assembly 2h. I hope to have helped you with my demolition. Good luck!
    Spoki

  9. 04.04.2011, 20:54#9
    Registered since
    07.01.2009
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    disc

    Hello!
    We're straight through with our windows for a tight sprayhood! Since we had to factor in impact from the sea, we opted for 10mm Makrolon. Even with this thickness, the panes can still bend slightly without heating. In addition, the panels have an extra coating (UV and scratch-resistant) - processing with a jigsaw and drill is no problem at all!
    If you live near Hamburg: Arthur Kröger (Mr. Adler)
    http://www.arthur-krueger.de/cms/website.php
    or:
    http://www.rexin-shop.de/saphir-uv-m...est-p-503.html
    http://www.plexiglas-hecker.de/de/Zuschnitte.html

    greeting
    Hatti

  10. 15.04.2011, 08:37#10
    Registered since
    19.08.2002
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    Wedel near Hamburg
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    Hello ,
    http://www.arthur-krueger.de/cms/website.php
    has given up the small item sales and refers to partner companies.
    I am also looking for 10 or even better 12 mm thick in brown for the front hatch.
    If I had known that there was such an act in HH and the surrounding area to get that I would have gone to Denmark.

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