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Baitcaster - all information about the baitcasting reel
The baitcaster is still a hot topic of conversation. You can find out how to fish with the baitcasting reel in this article. We go into the technology as well as the appropriate accessories. After reading it, you will be professionals in the subject. The baitcaster is on everyone's lips and only very few are familiar with the topic.
Where does the name come from?
Baitcast literally means throwing bait. A multiplier reel is often mistaken for a baitcaster, but this is not the same. Because there are many multiplier reels, but not all are suitable for throwing. A baitcast multi is a bait throwing multiplier that is specially designed for casting. Nevertheless, there are various differences here too, which we will explain in detail below. Read the article carefully before you go to the store and get one. What the baitcaster is not: a stationary reel.
The different baitcasting reels
There are a few things to consider with the baitcaster. Among other things, there are different shapes and types. Here it is important to think about what you need and what budget you have at an early stage. In addition to the flat baitcasting reels, there are also round ones. The round rollers are very robust and durable. The trend is more and more towards the round roll. A distinction is also made between freshwater and saltwater roles. Not every baitcaster is suitable for salt water. Here you should not only choose the right baitcasting reel, but also make an effort to maintain it accordingly.
Size and strength of the cord
The choice of size depends not only on the bait and weight, but also on the line strength. You shouldn't look at the topic in detail, you should think about what you want to fish afterwards. Under bait and weight you will find the right size for your needs. Here we show what you can fish with which line thickness.
|Baitcaster reel size||Weight bait||Load capacity||suitable for||Line class||Fishing on||bait|
|50s||5-15 g||4.5 kg||Advanced||8-10 lb||Aland, perch, chub, trout||light|
|100s||9-25 g||6-7 kg||Beginner, advanced, all-purpose role||12-15 lb||Perch, pike, lake trout||easy to medium|
|200s||15-60 g||7-10 kg||Advanced||15-20 lb||Perch, pike, asp, lake trout||heavy|
|300s||30-100 g||10-25 kg||Advanced, professionals||20-50 lb||Big fish, pike, black bass||extra heavy|
By the way, it's not just about the weight of the bait or the line. The roles themselves also have different weights. So that you don't make the wrong choice here, make sure that it is not top-heavy, but rather goes towards the stern. Experience shows that handling is much easier. Make sure that the weights of the rolls are in most cases given in ounces. If you want to know the right number of grams, use this ounce calculator.
Weights and bait
Not every baitcaster throws every weight. Make sure to pay attention to the number system of the respective manufacturer, so you get an overview of what weight the baitcaster is designed for. When we talk about weight here, we add up the weight, bait and line. Here is an overview:
- 50s - the smallest number in the bunch. With this you throw small and light weights or baits
- 100-er - if you are looking for an all-purpose role, then you are in good hands with this. 10-50 grams is a good range to use often. This baitcasting reel is the right choice, especially for beginners.
- 200-er - For light jerking or larger wobblers, this is the ideal baitcaster
- 300-er - a real heavyweight among the bait throwing reels that is not for beginners. One speaks here of bigbait fishing.
Choosing the right weight is an elementary choice when making a purchase, otherwise you have spent a lot of money and no pleasure in the multiplier afterwards. If you go fishing in Germany, sizes 50-200 are best for you. If you only want to afford one reel, you should choose the 100 baitcasting reel depending on your project. If you fish with too heavy a bait weight and the reel is not designed for it, you run the risk that the stability of the baitcasters is insufficient and that it will break. It doesn't matter how you cast as there is no real burden with this type of roll. What is important, however, is that the weight and the back pressure, i.e. the pressure that arises when cranking the bait, does not overload the reel.
Sometimes great novelties come onto the market here that are not just advertising blah blah. This definitely includes the SV roles (Stressfree Versatile). These are coils in connection with coordinated brakes. With it you can cast not only light but also heavy baits. From 3 to 80 g is a possible spectrum that has not existed before. You don't have to make any compromises when it comes to throwing distance, the system works very well. The SV system can also be used to retrofit older baitcaster models.
The right cord
Who would have thought that, here again the problem of choosing the right line. If you see someone fishing with the baitcaster, they will likely be using braided line. The reason the mono line is rarely used is because of the feel for a bite. At a greater depth you would not notice it. For a good drill this is more of a disadvantage. The bite is transmitted particularly directly because the line does not stretch.
But if you have a fish that bites very hard, a lack of stretch can mean that the fish is coming off the hook. But there is a trick how you can get around that. To compensate for the hook and the tight, unyielding braided line, you can simply stretch a fluorocarbon mono leader. This stretches, but you still don't lose the feeling for the bite, i.e. direct contact and drill harmonize perfectly. But not only that: Another advantage is that you or the fish can hardly see this leader in contrast to the braided line.
Since in America the cord size is not given in diameter, but in pounds, you have a guide here:
- 8 lb corresponds to 0.25 mm mono
- 10 lb is equivalent to 0.28 mm mono
- 12 lb corresponds to 0.30 mm mono
- 14 lb corresponds to 0.33 mm mono
- 17 lb corresponds to 0.38 mm mono
- 20 lb corresponds to 0.41 mm mono
Fast or slow line retraction?
The pulling-in of the line in particular is always a topic that divides minds. In this case, line pull-in means the amount of line that is taken up with one turn of the crank. The speed of retrieval depends on the respective gear ratio. A low gear ratio is automatically slower. On the other hand, high gear ratios are a guarantee for a fast model. This may sound banal at first glance, but when fishing for trout or in fast currents, it is important to have a high gear ratio. For basic fishing, winter fishing or hunting with crankbaits, it is advisable to choose a low gear ratio. This of course means that the role has less speed, but more power.
You will find the term crank rotation or gear ratio in English. This indicates how many revolutions the spool makes with one turn of the crank. Spool revolutions: Crank revolution - for example 6.0: 1 - means that the spool turns 6 times when the crank is turned once. The indication "Line Capacity" describes how much line the reel can hold.
Care and Maintenance
Demanding care is necessary, especially with salt water, otherwise you will not enjoy the device for long. But also in general the baitcaster is a care friend. The good old spinning reel doesn't complain, even if it is rarely maintained. The baitcasters don't go along with that. Here you can tell immediately if nothing has been looked after. Fortunately, you don't need any sinfully expensive or exotic care products. You are well equipped with a little oil and fat.
The line guide should be greased regularly so that the casting performance does not decrease and the ball-bearing spool is grateful for a drop of oil. An annual inspection of the interior is desirable. This removes all coarse dirt. You can use a narrow brush for this, then grease and oil. How often you have to clean the reel depends on how often you use the baitcasters. If you use the role several times a week, then you should take a quarterly maintenance cycle for it.
Which hand is used to fish?
In contrast to other reels, where you can dismantle the handle and fix it on the other side, this is not possible with the baitcast reel. All left-handers should get a left-handed role, all southpaws need a right-handed role. We explained the key figure for the line capacity above, which not every manufacturer takes to heart or prints on. If this is available, you can usually tell from the last number whether the role is suitable for right-handed or left-handed people. The number 0 declares a left-handed model, the number 1 a right-handed model.
Which brake is the right one?
If you are working with a very thin line, then you should set the brake to be particularly soft. Otherwise it can tear at obstacles. Basically there are (how could it be otherwise?) Different braking systems. If you do not set the system correctly, you will not have much fun with the first throws. Our instructions are all the more important. These are the two main types of braking, there are also other braking functions - the mechanical brake, the combat brake and the drill itself.
- Magnetic brake
- Centrifugal brake
Magnetic brake and centrifugal brake
The magnetic brake brakes by means of small magnets. The centrifugal brake is also known as a centrifugal brake. Here the brake - as the name suggests - is caused by centrifugal force. Small nipples cause frictional resistance. The purpose of the respective braking system is to brake the spool. This prevents the spool from overwinding when the line is pulled by the bait. Both systems have their advantages and disadvantages. The greatest throwing distances are achieved with the centrifugal brake. Beginners in particular have more fun with this. With the magnetic brake you are much more flexible, as you can quickly fine-tune it before the throw.
Other braking options
The mechanical brake regulates how hard the pin presses on the spool. This brakes the spool. To adjust this, it is sufficient to turn the adjusting knob. The fighting brake (the small wheel in the shape of a star) controls how much line the catch can pull after the bite. Depending on how you set them, the fish needs more or less strength. With direct drill one also speaks of the emergency brake. That means, you brake the spool with your thumb. To do this, you can simply press the freewheeling switch, just like when casting, and put your thumb on the spool with feeling.
By the way, you don't just have to give more line when casting. When the going gets tough, you can push the crossbar over the drum of the line and thereby trigger the free-wheeling, just like when throwing. This prevents the line from breaking and the prey from escaping. If the freewheel is to be stopped, then it is enough to simply crank again. The freewheel stops automatically.
In the last section we explained the braking options in more detail, if your head is already smoking, then wait for the brakes to be fine-tuned. Note that the setting can vary a little depending on the manufacturer.
As mentioned above, the pins brake the spool. This is easy to adjust, but not as flexible as with the magnetic brake. Depending on how many pins you push in, the stronger the braking force. Just try it out here. You can also benefit from the mechanical brake in special situations. For example, fine-tuning can do a lot in headwinds. If you have your own experience with the braking systems, please leave a comment for our readers.
With the magnetic brake you usually work with a medium value. The spontaneous setting is nice, even when it is hectic.
It all depends on the throwing technique
Throwing with the baitcaster is the needle ör when fishing. If you jerk off here, you quickly have a wig. Especially as a beginner, it makes sense to set the mechanical, magnetic or centrifugal brakes to a high level of strength. Better to choose a bait that is not too light and that pulls off the line as quickly as possible. You can also practice with a throwing lead. Better to try smaller ranges first to get a feel for the ejection.
When casting, we distinguish between three types of throw that are used over and over again:
- Forehand throw
- Backhand throw
- lateral throw
The forehand is the most accurate way to throw. Backhand throws are not as easy to do as they are sideways or with the forehand. One throws sideways if something is in the way. It can be trees or buildings. Incidentally, the throwing distance can also be easily controlled with the emergency brake, i.e. with the thumb. The farthest you can get with a powerful overhead throw. There is also a bottom-up throwing technique, similar to throwing a bowling ball. This throw is also called roll throw. This type of litter can be advantageous from the bridge or when there are bank growth such as low-hanging branches. This throwing technique is very difficult, requires practice, and is nowhere near as fun.
So againl: Regardless of which throwing technique is chosen, the throws and the charging of the coil must not be jerky, but should take place in the flow. Fluid flowing movements lead to good results.
Underhand throws with one hand are particularly accurate with the baitcaster and are ideally used for smaller distances. The nice thing is that the bait arrives relatively inconspicuously.
Pitchcast is a technique in which the bait is thrown out of the hand. The rod moves from 8 a.m. to 11 a.m. and the bait glides flat across the water. With the emergency brake, the spool is slowed down and the bait is deposited in the water.
Flipping is not a throwing technique, but is used for short distances in the bank area. The free running of the role is taboo here. The line that has already been pulled out is used and the pitchcast throw is used. You can strike particularly quickly here in the herb.
Skipping is very popular. Basically, it's like jumping a flat stone over the water. The throw is very quick, if the bait flips too far, simply apply the brake, otherwise you can quickly get a hangover. Skipping is done with softbaits and other soft baits.
A common problem when casting with the baitcaster is the angle of the line to the line guide. Often this creates a jam in the cord. This is because the line guide can lie on the edge of the guide rail when it is thrown, which means that the line has to overcome a certain angle so that it can run off the reel. The result is a wig. Fortunately, there is a solution to this problem too - the TWS system.
All major manufacturers of baitcaster reels are researching solutions to the problem mentioned. The now rather outdated approach of Daiwa is interesting. A lid opens here, which prevents the line from jamming, as there is more space for the line guide. Many users complain about this system because it makes the role seem a bit unstable. Still, it works pretty well. The newer Tatula series, which has the T-wing system, is much more sophisticated. When the freewheel is activated, the system folds over and reveals a significantly larger opening. The fishing line can snap out without much friction, and the opening closes again when it is cranked.
advantages and disadvantages
The advantage of the baitcaster is that you can cast very precisely, it doesn't even take a lot of practice. In addition to a good portion of fun, the bait also flies much more stable than with comparable stationary reels because it is constantly on the move. It's like cranking the line straight into your hand, which makes you feel the bait very intensely.
In contrast to a stationary reel, the baitcaster is much more stable. This is due to the fact that it has an extremely powerful gearbox and an axle with bearings on both sides. You can also throw much more precisely. A big advantage is that you can steer the bait while you are still casting through the continuous pull. The baitcasting reel is also impressive when it comes to speed. You can fish here with one hand and bring in and cast again at an incredibly fast pace. Especially with small reels you have a lot of control over the little fishing wonder.
You can control the depth very well even without ejection. A small multi-role is sufficient here, as it is particularly flexible.
What bothers me about the baitcaster is that especially small weights don't run nicely. Even with the wind blowing against you, you really don't have any fun. Actually, the technique works best with the twisted cord. Since the bait is light, it is difficult to act here and the feeling is not particularly nice.If the string doesn't unwind properly, then you have the lettuce and a ball of string with it. Especially with fish that have a quick bite or with strong currents, the reel cannot be cranked in quickly enough.
With a multiplier you have the most possible uses. For example, when vertical fishing for adaptation to different depths, such as on a motorboat, which changes its position and thus has to struggle with various changes in the subsoil and possibly even obstacles. The stationary reel is rather inefficient here, as you would have to constantly fold the handle and let off the cord.
Beginner or professional
For beginners in particular, choosing the right reel is not as easy as it is with other fishing accessories. In a well-equipped fishing shop you should be able to see one or two baitcasters and make the choice much easier. It is important to ask yourself what you want to fish with it afterwards. If you don't go on the high seas or want to drive heavy equipment, the 100 mm reel is best because it can be used in a variety of ways.
If you start fishing with the baitcaster, you shouldn't buy too cheaply and trust big brand names. Because if the technology such as ball bearings, spools or axles has been tampered with, then the reel does not work well and you end up tangled in the line. Well-known manufacturers for the baitcasters are:
Our conclusion is that choosing the right baitcasters is not that easy. We recommend choosing a store or ordering two models from the online shop. Because whether it is a flat or a round multiplier depends not only on the technology, but also on your taste. Take your time to test the right technology and slowly get down to work. Those who do not find out enough about the right role will spend a lot of money and have no fun. If you just want to go spin fishing, you can use both a stationary and a multi-baitcasting reel.
It also helps to find out what new models are on the market. The baitcaster is constantly being developed. Basically, the technology does not change from the ground up, but the fine-tuning improves. The gears and housings are becoming more and more functional and stable, the roles are becoming lighter and ergonomics are improving significantly. For perch anglers, the baitcaster is a real pleasure.
Read more articles from our blog:
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Baitcaster - all information about the baitcasting reel
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